Ceredigion Coastal Path 8 - Aberporth to Cardigan

Today we were setting out to finally complete our challenge of walking the Ceredigion Coastal Path.  The official website stated that this section would be approximately 12 miles over three different stretches - as will be seen, one of us made it all the way!

For me, this was also the opportunity to smash my personal steps record - aiming for 50,000 steps I knew the walk alone would not be enough, so my day started just after 6am with a long walk around the local country lanes - clocking up my first 10,000 steps before breakfast!  

Doing this walk on a Sunday limited our ability to complete the walk using public transport, so we drove to Cardigan and took the still free weekend bus to our starting point at Aberporth.


The first part of the walk involved a long diversion from the coast around MOD Aberporth - with a long road climb up to the base and a short trek through fields / overgrown shrubbery before arriving at the top of the cliff.

The path along the coast here was also very overgrown and we ended up carrying the walking poles as they kept getting caught on the grass. Views of the cliffs below were few and far between, although we'd occasionally catch some dramatic scenery through the foliage.

It was also very still and hot, with lots of annoying little flying creatures buzzing around us (despite the insect repellent), all of which made the 5 miles to Mwnt feel interminable.

It was almost worth it - Mwnt is one place we'd like to return to, although I don't think we'll be walking there from Aberporth again!  It was nice to sit in the sun and refuel (with homemade energy bars), enjoying the view.


Needing the steps for my 50k step challenge (and also because I like going up hills!) I decided to walk up Foel y Mwnt while Sarah continued along the coast path.  The view from the top along to Cardigan Island was stunning and I was fortunate enough to see dolphins. Well worth the effort to get up there, and as I walk much faster than Sarah, it wasn't long before I caught her up, especially as she stopped for an ice-cream from the beach cafe!

The walk from Mwnt to Gwbert (another 3.5 miles) was mostly along the cliff edge, a lot more open and breezy, and with some stunning scenery. This is the one part of this section of the path I could see us doing again.

Initially the walk was enlivened by a small flock of sheep which got themselves stuck on the path ahead of us - we were 'herding' them for some distance before they finally made a break for it - but we also saw dolphins and donkeys.

There was a large diversion inland round Cardigan Island Coastal Farm Park, which involved walking through fields (and not for the last time).


I cannot help but feel the owners of the Park have made an error in not allowing walkers through their property as a few of us may have stopped for tea and cake.

On the hill down to Gwbert, Sarah’s knee was giving her major discomfort, so the decision was made for her to wait in the Gwbert hotel while I continued and collected the car.

This is how Sarah ended her coastal path challenge, chugging cider, as having heard about my experience getting to Cardigan she has no desire to walk it!

The final leg from Gwbert to Cardigan (3.5 miles) followed the estuary, and was lovely, right up to the point where the path turned into a boat yard.

After this, it once more became fields and overgrown paths - I got turned around in one field and could not find the way out, perhaps I missed a signpost, and it was all getting a bit frustrating.

Very unglamourously, the walk finishes with a tight squeeze between the sewage works and an overgrown hedge before arriving in the main Cardigan car park.


Finally got back to the car, collected Sarah from the Gwbert hotel and drove us to Aberaeron for the now traditional post-walk chips - with a final stroll around Aberaeron to knock up a few more steps and reach my 50,000 steps:

It is very unlikely we will walk this complete section again as there were very few enjoyable bits, and for the most part it just seemed like a chore that needed to be finished. This section highlights for me, the difference between walking to complete a task and walking for enjoyment.

The final stats from my GPS recorder:

Distance 23.32km
Duration: 6:52
Moving Time: 6:05
Calories: 2493
Ascent: 679 meters